2016 marks the 10th year that Beth and I have been organizing tours to beautiful Provence. I put a short slideshow together to commemorate this. If you’ve joined us in the past…..I hope you enjoy reliving the memories. If you’re joining us this year… get ready for a great adventure! I also invite our 2016 guests to browse through this blog. We include information about some of the villages we’ll be visiting along with general tips for French travel. Cheers!
Destination: Carrieres de Lumieres
We’ve added an amazing destination to our 10-day tour – Carrières de Lumières
written by Beth Vosoba
After our visit to St. Paul de Mausole, the asylum where Vincent Van Gogh painted over 148 paintings and composed over 100 drawings, we visit the unique Carrières de Lumières in nearby Les Baux. The origin of this site was the Carrières du Val d’Enfer quarry, created over the years for extracting white limestone used in the construction of the Chateau of Les Baux. Large-scale stone production in the Saint-Rémy area forced quarry-workers to change mining techniques using hoists and pits leading to the surface. Thus, the need for stone in the construction of the medieval Château of Les Baux, is why quarries were opened in this part of the Alpilles.
In 1935, economic competition from modern materials led to the closure of the quarries.The Carrières were given a new life thanks to the visionary genius of Jean Cocteau in the 1960s. He was enchanted by the beauty of the place and its surroundings, and decided to film “The Testament of Orpheus” here in 1959.
This transformation was continued in 1977 with the creation of a new project inspired by the research of Joseph Svoboda, one of the great scenographers of the second half of the twentieth century (who had been working on a scenography idea using projected images as early as 1942) and decided to enhance this area: the huge rock walls are perfect backdrops for a new kind of sound and light show which fully involves the audience.
For over 30 years, the Carrières du Val d’Enfer has hosted these audio visual shows.
Now managed by Culturespaces, the show takes place inside of the cool and quiet quarry magically transformed by projected images and music. You are free to move about or remain stationary in the quarry as the images change and move, creating an unique experience for the visitor. New themes are presented annually. This summer’s theme is Picasso and the Spanish Masters. There is another segment about “Flower Power” and pop culture of the 60s.
Destination: Chateau de Grignan
The charming village of Grignan is only a 30 minute drive from our home town of St. Cécile-les-Vignes and we are excited add a visit next summer on the Experience Provence 10-day tour. We invite you to join us!
Dating back to the 11th century the village is dominated by a large chateau with fortifications built in the 12th century and a new wall and towers around the village constructed in the 13th century. The castle was destroyed during the French Revolution but was recently restored in the 20th century by a private citizen who then donated it to the province so that all could enjoy this historical gem and imagine what it looked like in the past.
This amazing Renaissance castle is famous for it’s connection with Madame de Sévigné, who wrote many letters to her daughter, Madame de Grignan who lived here in the 17th century, and she also wrote some of the letters while staying at the castle.
If you are like me, you may recognize the name, but not be familiar with her work . Et voila a possible reason: The letters, although widely read and circulated in the French-speaking world and among cultivated readers of other lands they were not readily translated into English until recently. Although not all published or signed, she was a prolific writer composing over 1,120 letters!
French school children often read her works, as she is known as an icon of French literature. A few of her best-known admirers range from Horace Walpole in the eighteenth century to Marcel Proust, Virginia Woolf, and Thornton Wilder in the twentieth. Another reason that she is not so well known to us is because the genre she embraced was that of an épistolière, a writer of letters to friends, family and business contacts, although in this case they were mostly to her daughter Madame de Grignan.
We will visit the grounds, the castle and the charming medieval village of Grignan, which is also well-known for its roses! Grignan has over 150 varieties of roses displayed throughout the village from April through June.
Space is filling up for our 2016 Tours. Currently there are only 2 rooms available for the 10-day tour, dates 18 – 28 June. Five rooms are available for the 7-day tour, dates 2-9 July. For more information visit Provence Properties Tour Info Information specific to each tour may be found in the ‘Tour Info’ drop down menu.
a bientot,
Beth and Lisa
Destination: Le Mont Ventoux
Le Mont Ventoux – by Beth Vosoba
This year on our Experience Provence Tours we visited Le Mont Ventoux….by car. Unless you are a cycling fan or are familiar with Provence, you may have never heard of this place, but as this year’s guests can attest, it is an incredible place. As the Tour de France is about to finish, I thought you might be interested to learn a few facts about the “Giant of Provence”.
- The elevation is 1912m. This has been a Tour de France Stage more than 10 times and has also been the site of the Tour de France finish line. From Bedoin at 300m to the summit, this route is 21.5 km with an average incline of 7.5% (which may not seem SO bad) but remember that is the average and some sections are 11%-12% grade!
- You can reach the summit 3 ways and it is a hotly contested issue whether the Bedoin ascent or the Malaucene is the most difficult.
- The mountain is known as the Beast of Provence, and some people refer to it as the Bald Mountain, because it was deforested and now just has bare limestone on the summit. It appears to be covered by snow all year, but this is only true occasionally in the winter.
- Mont Ventoux is associated with very strong winds, (also know as the windy mountain, “vent” is wind in French. At the summit, wind speeds of more than 200 mph have been recorded. The roads high up on the slopes are often closed as a result of the strong gusts.
- So how long does it take to cycle up to Mt. Ventoux? I have asked a few people at the top (who did not appear to be professional athletes….who said 3 ½ hours). I have a cyclist friend who can do it in an hour and a half, but the current record for ascending Mont Ventoux is held by Spanish cyclist Iban Mayo. In the 2004 edition of the Dauphineé Libéré race a mountain time trial was held from Bedoin to the summit and Mayo climbed the mountain in an unbelievable 55 minutes 51 seconds. Unfortunately due to recent developments, almost all of the top 10 fastest times up the Ventoux posted during that time trial are tainted with doping allegations.
- , Tom Simpson, a British cyclist competing in the Tour de France, died ascending Mont Ventoux. He was suffering from a combination of heat exhaustion, alcohol and amphetamines. He was weaving wildly on the bike before he fell down asking spectators to “put me back on the bike!” He then rode to within 1.5km of the summit before collapsing, still clipped to his pedals. A memorial to him has been erected on the mountain close to the spot where he collapsed.
- The cycle ride from Bedoin to Mont Ventoux is thought to be one of the most physically challenging climbs in the world.
Cheers to You! – Experience Provence 10-day Group
What happens when you combine a breathtaking landscape, sunny summer days, cool summer nights and 10 really wonderful people? ….. one fantastic experience! We can’t thank you guys enough for joining us here amongst the lavender and the cigales. One of our members, Ann, would regularly comment after leaving the ‘village du jour’ …”This is my favorite!” We know exactly how you feel, Ann. It’s so hard to pick an absolute ‘favorite’ place. We saw a lot in our 10-days together! We’ve created some life long memories and made some new friends! Cheers to you guys!!!!
Bises,
Lisa and Beth
The Lavender is Beautiful in Provence this Year!
We’re in the middle of our 10-day tour and the weather is some of the best I’ve experienced in my 9 plus years of organizing these tours…..and….the lavender is spectacular!!
For those of you on the tour right now – you can vouch for me at how beautiful the lavender is right now. For those of you signed up for 2016 – let these lavender shots whet your appetite! For those of you thinking about a visit to Provence – Yes…you should see this at least once in your life!
It’s the Final Countdown !
10 days and counting until the Experience Provence 2015 tour season gets underway. I am more than ready to return to France, meet our new guests, and catch up with our returning guest! The beauty of this region comforts me like my favorite old sweater and after a long cold winter and a busy spring…it’s time!
A few final tips as you prepare for your departure:
- If any of your travel plans have changed since you last communicated them to us, please let me know as soon as possible so Beth and I will be sure to meet you. If you are arriving at the Marseilles airport, look for us just outside of baggage claim. If you will be arriving at the TGV station in Avignon, we will plan to meet you at the bottom of the steps in the “Arrivals” area near the front exit. If you get delayed for any reason, please be sure to give us a call. (Email me for phone numbers if you can’t find them)
look for these smiling faces –
- It has been a hot spring in Provence this year – don’t forget your sunscreen! I would also recommend you bring a hat for shade, unless you’d prefer to wait and purchase a hat at one of the markets we’ll visit. Daytime temps lately have been low 90’s during the day and 60’s at night.
your “home away from home’ is waiting
get ready – we will be here Sunday!
- Let your credit card company and your bank know that you’ll be traveling in France so you’ll avoid having to call them after your first French transaction is noted as ‘suspicious activity’ (yes, this happened to me)
- Don’t forget your passport! I also recommend a ‘cross-body’ style of bag for keeping your wallet and valuables secure.
- If for some unavoidable reason we miss you the moment you arrive, don’t worry, we will find you!! There is a Starbucks (I’m sure you’re not surprised) in Hall 1 at the Marseilles airport. We can easily find you there. If you’re arriving at the TGV station in Avignon and we’re not at the bottom of the steps to meet you, please wait for us just outside the front door. The front looks out over a parking lot. If you see a rental car building, you’re in the back.
- If you have any last minute questions, don’t hesitate to email us: Lisa – lisa@provenceproperties.net or Beth – essencedp@aol.com
see you very soon !
Dispelling the Myth of the Rude French Waiter and other Helpful Hints.
We have all heard stories of Americans in France (usually Paris) who experience the rude waiter or shopkeeper. I think with a little understanding, this can easily be avoided, as this is just a cultural difference with regards to dining and the importance of cooking and food in France.
When entering a store or restaurant, you should always greet the proprietor or staff with a “bonjour Madame or bonjour Messieur”. They may say this to you first, and you can just reply with the same phrase. After about 6pm this turns into “bonsoir”. The same applies when you depart. Au revoir (Oh ruvwahr) Madame or Monsieur.
When you decide to go to a restaurant or café, even a casual one, you will often see the special of the day written on a blackboard outside called the “formule”. This is usually a good deal. For example you could find a posting saying 15E for either the entrée (small dish like appetizer) and plat (main dish) or the plat and dessert. You might also see posted 19E for entrée, plat and dessert or coffee. There are usually a few choices in each category to choose from but not always. This is a great way to try lots of interesting things without a big bill.
When you decide to go in and be seated, they will hand you a menu, but they will also tell you the “plat du jour” (plate of the day) or “formule”. You can order “a la carte” as well but it is often more expensive by the time you add everything up.
When you have decided what you’d like to order, close the menu and set it on the table as this is your cue to the staff that you are ready to order. Often they will ask what you’d like to drink. If you just want some tap water, ask for a “carafe d’eau” (kahrahf dough). If they ask whether you would like still or bubbles, this is referring to bottled water.
If more than one person is interested in wine, a demi carafe (half carafe) is usually quite affordable and good to share. This will usually be a local wine. You can also order a “carafe” or a bottle. You have the choice of white (blanc), rosé or red (rouge). White and rosé are served cold. Rosé is not the “white zinfandel” you may be used to but a lovely light dryer wine, perfect for hot summer days.
The waiter will ask your choice of entrée, and plat but doesn’t want to know what you want for dessert at this time, you can decide about that later. A coffee is often ordered at the end of the meal, but not required. It will be an espresso. For those of you wanting decaf, yes it is available and known as (daykah). If you want a milky coffee like café au lait, it is called crème in the south. Espresso with just a little cream (like macchiato) is a noisette.
The waiter/waitress will not be stopping by the table asking “how’s everything tasting”, but discreetly watching you from a distance so as not to interrupt your meal and conversation. If you need something, just a slight wave of hand should bring them over.
When you are ready for the bill, you will again waive him or her over and ask for the “Addition” s’il vous plait, (see voo play). They will not come over to ask if you have finished and are ready for the bill. When you decide to take a table, it is yours until you are ready to leave. You must tell them when you are ready to leave. There is no rush. This is your table until you decide to leave.
Being a waiter or waitress is a profession in France and the staff is trained and paid accordingly for this job. The tip is usually included but if you’d like to leave an extra 1 or 2 Euro for good service that is appreciated, but not expected. A 15% tip would be too much.
If you decide to sit down for lunch or dinner at a restaurant, be sure that you have an hour or more to spend there. The French consider cooking to be an art and it should be enjoyed and appreciated in a relaxed manner. If you do not have time for this, a place called “snacking” might be more appropriate. Bakeries often also have very affordable items that you can take “to go” and eat when and where you’d like as well.
When we expect to have a quick lunch in 20-30 minutes, and seem frustrated that the waiter is not coming to ask what we want next, or leaving the bill on the table, this can be mistaken for rudeness. However this is simply a cultural difference. So enjoy your time in Provence, relax and enjoy your meal. Even if you don’t know exactly what or how to say something, your attempt is usually greatly appreciated.
Bon appetit
Recommended books, movies and tips to prepare for your upcoming trip.
Recommended Books and Movie List about Provence
Books:
Peter Mayle is a Brit that has written several books about his experience in Provence. His books are very funny, witty and capture the magic and frustrations of life in Provence. Some of his titles include:
A Year in Provence
Toujours Provence
Encore Provence
A Good Year
The Corsican Caper
The Marseille Caper
I also love Edith Wharton’s French Ways and Their Meaning
Other suggested fiction reading:
Joanne Harris books – Chocolat, Holy Fools, and Five Quarters of the Orange
Non-fiction reading suggestions:
Fodors’ Exploring Provence
Lonely Planet – Provence & the Cote d’Azur
Markets of Provence – A Culinary Tour of Southern France
The Hungry Traveler – France
Maps:
Michelin – Regional Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur #527 will give a good overall view of the area
Michelin- Local- Drome, Vaucluse #332 – more details of the roads we’ll be traveling.
Movies:
There is a PBS series of A Year in Provence (although I didn’t find it nearly as entertaining as the book), and also a DVD of A Good Year which I really enjoyed.
Some of Lisa’s favorites: French Kiss, Before Sunrise, Before Sunset, Amélie, and Chocolat
A classic if you are willing to read subtitles is Jean de Florette and Manon of the Spring, which both take place near Marseille, written by Pagnol.
Blog:
Our good friend Kristin Espinasse also has an interesting blog called “French Word-A-Day” introducing a french vocabulary word with a definition, sound bite and a short story about her life in Provence.
Language;
We are always happy to translate for you, but for those of you with a little french in your history, or for those just wanting to utter a kind word at the right time, we suggest the app. “Duolingo”. You can practice listening, writing, even speaking and it’s a fun way to learn or refresh a little before the trip if you’d like.
Packing:
Your thoughts may be on packing and the weather as well as what to wear. In past years it has been very nice the first part of our tour and the second half (this would apply to those on the July tour) to be pretty hot in the intense sun, but very pleasant in the shade.
Humidity is very low so it tends to cool off in the evenings. We have a pool at the villa but it is not heated. Again, towards the end of our stay we usually find guests using the pool more than at the very beginning. When it is hot and dry there is nothing nicer than a dip in the pool when we get “home”. Pool towels are provided.
Casual clothing is suggested. Women may want to wear a light or sleeveless top with a light sweater in the day and bring along a light jacket at night. Even on our night out at a local restaurant, you will be hard pressed to find someone formally dressed. Many of the men wear short sleeves, shorts or capris with espadrilles or sandals. Women often wear skirts and sandals or light dresses.
If you want to visit any churches or cathedrals you will probably need to have on sleeves and nothing too provocative. The most important piece of information is to wear comfortable shoes. There are many cobble-stoned streets and lots of limestone dust. To truly enjoy your time there, you will want to have comfortable shoes to walk in. I also suggest you pack light as we have a washer and dryer at the villa and in such a dry climate, clothes can be hung on a rack outside and often be dry and ready in a matter of an hour or two.
Lisa’s sample 2-week packing- neatly rolled, this all fits in a carry-on sized suitcase-
3-4 casual skirts
2 casual dresses
6-8 tops (each top matching w/at least 2 outfits)
3 pair of walking sandals
*A cross-body purse is easier to carry and more secure than a shoulder bag when traveling.
Remember an electrical converter to charge cameras, computers or phones. I have a euro blow dryer that I will be happy to share with others if you don’t want to worry about brining one.
Other things to remember: camera, Laptop or i-pad (there is free wi-fi at the house) chargers for phone, i-pad etc. and a travel alarm clock.
Banking:
You may want to also check with your bank about a debit card. Lisa and I have found using the ATM to be the easiest. Most establishments take a credit card, but you will want cash at the markets. Be sure to know your PIN (personal identification number) prior to departure. You will also want to call your credit card company and your bank to tell them that you will be out of the country so they don’t mistakenly put a hold on your account, suspecting fraud. (This has happened in the past (to Lisa too!). You may also want to find out about a transaction fee. Most cards will charge one. I do not recommend traveler’s checks. Bank hours are limited and in our little village they may not know what to do with it. We have a couple of ATM machines in St. Cecile les Vignes. If you want cash before leaving the airport, there is an ATM at the Marseille airport.
Introducing Your Hosts
Beth and I have been organizing and leading trips to Provence since 2006. This upcoming 2015 adventure will be our 14th tour! It amazes me how quickly this time has passed, but I’m not at all surprised by my continued desire to return and share this beauty and joie de vivre with others.
Beth Vosoba has been coming to Provence every year for the last 20 years, ever since that first trip when she fell in love with this place. “I love the landscape, the colors, the people, the food and the culture”. “I knew on that first trip that I wanted to create a life where this special place would play a big part”. Last year Beth sold her business of 20 years, Essence de Provence, in which she imported French lavender and made French lavender products.
She is currently on a “pause” or break, changing directions and enjoying several months in Marseille with her partner Guillermo Orti who is on sabbatical from George Washington University. She is continuing her language studies at the Alliance Francaise de Marseille, painting and organizing group tours. “All of my favorite things!”
Beth invited me, Lisa Kiely, to Provence in the summer of 1998. I became instantly enchanted with the beauty and lifestyle of the area and I knew I would return. I started Provence Properties in 2001 and continue to enjoy assisting others organize their vacations to the South of France.
I studied French for 3 years as an adult and I still have a lot to learn. I live in Lincoln, Nebraska with my son, Max (18), my daughter, Caitlin (26), her soon to be husband, Nick, (love him) and my granddaughter, Lily (6). In addition to owning Provence Properties, I am the assistant to the Associate Principals at Lincoln High School and I create and sell lavender products at our local farmer’s market on Saturdays. I practice yoga and photography, enjoy wine, travel and good company.
Assisting us on the tours this year will be a couple of our favorite people – our guys! They are extremely supportive and loving; not to mention fabulous cooks, expert drivers and honestly, Guille and Hartmut can clean a kitchen better than I could ever dream.
Guillermo Orti is a Biology Professor at George Washington University in Washington D.C. He is a native of Buenos Aires, Argentina but has been living in the U.S. since 1988. He and Beth are currently in Marseilles on an extended sabbatical. Guille has accompanied Beth several times to Provence and he looks forward to being a driver and helper again this year. He is an avid runner, loves Tango music, is a great cook and looks forward to sampling the many fine wines in Provence.
Hartmut Doebel is also a Biology Professor at George Washington University. Originally from Nienburg, Germany, Hartmut visited the US in 1983 as an exchange student and has been here ever since. He’s organized and led student tour groups through Provence, Tuscany, Quebec, and the Southwestern states in the US. He’s a lover of nature, wine, and learning, and he puts 1000’s of miles on his bike every year. In addition, he is an avid apiarist having successfully placed multiple hives atop the George Washington University biology building and also 4 personal hives at his home. This will be his first year to assist on the tour and I’m really happy he’ll be joining us.
Together we are look forward to sharing our experience and passion for Provence with you.
Reminder: balance payments and release waivers are due May 1st. I’ve emailed the release waiver to everyone, but if you missed it, let me know and I’ll send another one your way. Also, if you haven’t let us know your travel plans, please do so we can be sure to meet you.
Experience Provence Tours 